How a closing seam can also look beautiful on the inside
There are models that are prettier if the closing seam is also beautifully finished on the inside. Whenever the inside of a piece of clothing is also visible when it is being worn, for example with trousers that are turned outwards at the hem. Or like here with my JaKimo, which is so wide and worn without a fastener that the inside is also visible:
That’s why I deliberately chose a jacquard fabric for this model that looks good on both sides of the fabric. Now only the closing seam on the side has to be finished nicely, and the kimono can move and show itself from all sides as it likes!
There are different types of seams that can also be used to process closing seams from the inside. For example with a felled seam or a French seam.
I decided on a variant here in which the seam allowance is simply folded in again. And with the help of the overlock. To do this, the edges must be trimmed. For this I make a 3-thread overlock seam out of a 4-thread one.
Step 1 – Set 3-thread overlock seam and overcast edge
A 3-thread overlock seam is completely sufficient for overcasting. First I cut the right needle thread on the needle. This keeps as much of the yarn as possible.
Then I use a tool that is in the front cover of my BERNINA L 890, right next to the brush.
With this tool I can grab the needle and take it out and of course put it back in later.
So that I don’t lose the needle, I simply put it in the overlock cone of the right needle thread. It’s just shut down. So the needle doesn’t interfere here.
I set the thread tension with a stitch length of 3 as follows:
- left needle thread 4
- Upper and lower looper 4.5
I set the knife to 6 mm.
This is how I now neaten the raw edges of the jacquard fabric so that they don’t fray during the project. Later, this 6 mm wide serging will serve as a guide for the correct width when ironing.
2nd step – close the side seam
I now sew the closing seam with a seam allowance width of 1.5 cm. In order to keep the correct distance here throughout, I mark it with masking tape. The throat plate of my BERNINA 535 already shows this width starting from the middle needle position. With the masking tape I can extend this marking in my direction a little.
Step 3 – Iron the seam allowance
First I iron out the seam allowance.
Then I turn in the seam allowance again, exactly the width of the overcast. The 3-thread overlock seam on this edge makes it very easy to iron the same width throughout and the fabric can almost be turned in exactly at this point by itself.
4th step – topstitch the seam allowance
In order to be able to topstitch the ironed seam allowance with a narrow edge, i.e. very close to the fold, I look for a guide on the sewing foot and adjust the needle position accordingly. Here I have moved them 2 positions to the right.
So it pierces just next to the fold when it runs along the right inner edge, as can be seen in the picture.
This is what my closing seam looks like from the inside. Yes, I think this processing is impressive, and maybe it can even go outside at my next JaKimo! Especially with such jacquard fabrics with 2 different sides you can achieve really great effects.
Ideas for additional design effects
From the outside it looks like this. If you choose the sewing thread in a matching colour, the two stitchings are hardly noticeable! For an additional decorative effect, I can also imagine a contrasting fancy yarn, maybe even with a color gradient. But that would then have to be wound onto the bobbin if it is to be visible on the outside.
JaKimo – Jacket & Kimono
I chose the 80 cm length for my JaKimo and therefore added slits to the side. I show how this works in combination with this beautiful workmanship in the instructions for the model. These and the pattern are now available as an e-book from Katjuschka:
To the e-book JaKimo