Hello, my dears
Today I show you the beginner-friendly shirt Vio from the magazine “inspiration”, which you can sew in no time with your serger.
I used the BERNINA L 860 to sew the Shirt Vios, with this model it’s really easy to find the perfect setting for each stitch.
Sewing Shirt Vio — Materials
First you need the pattern for the shirt Vio. This is included in Bernina’s “inspiration” magazine, issue no. 03/2021. Alternatively, you can also get the pattern separately from the magazine’s website as a digital pattern to print out, just follow this link:
Sewing pattern Shirt Vio
In principle, the Vio shirt can be sewn from various fabrics that are highly stretchable. But the Vio shirt gets its trendy look from the ribbed fabric. This can often be found under terms such as “Ribbed Tricot”, “Ribbed Jersey”, “Ribbed Knit” or similar. I chose a stretchy cotton ribbed jersey with a striped pattern.
In addition to the fabric, you will also need the following:
- cloth clips
- Sewing thread for the overlocker, 4 cones
- cloth scissors
- Stretch needles for your sergers
Sew the Vio shirt — let’s get started
Step 1: Cut
First you cut out all three pattern pieces. Note that no seam allowance is included. No allowance is necessary at the hems, since rolled hems are sewn everywhere. If you also prefer a slightly longer shirt, you can just add a few centimeters at the bottom like I did. In this case, it’s better to have a little more, you can always shorten it.
Step 2: Shoulder Seams
Lay the front piece on the back piece right sides together and pin the two shoulder seams. Then sew both seams with the overlocker and the 4-thread stitch.
Step 3: Sew on the sleeves
The sleeves of the Shirt Vio can now be sewn in. To do this, lay the front and back pieces unfolded in front of you with the right side facing up. Take one sleeve and pin it right sides together on the appropriate side. Sew again with the 4-thread overlock seam.
Step 4: Close side seams
Now the side seams and the seams of the sleeves can be closed in one go. Place the front and back pieces right sides together and pin the sides together. Follow this edge and pin the open edges of the sleeves together, right sides together. Make sure that the seams of the sleeve attachment meet exactly. If you have a pattern with stripes, also make sure that the stripes meet on the sides as much as possible.
Sew the sides together with the 4-thread-stitch.
Step 5: Sew on the collar
Pin the collar right sides together and sew it on with the overlocker.
Step 6: Sew rolled hems
The existing look of the Shirt Vio is mainly due to the wavy look of the rolled hems. These are sewn in this last step. Furnishes all open edges – collar, cuffs and hem – with a rolled hem.
Set your serger to rolled hem using the instructions on the machine’s display and try out a test piece to see if you like the settings for gathering. Maybe adjust the differential a bit.
In addition, the fabric is stretched as it is sewn, so the gathering becomes even more pronounced.
When it comes to collars and sleeves, it is worth using the free-arm function of the Bernina L860, as this makes these somewhat narrower areas easier to work with.
The shirt Vio is now ready. Of course, if you like, you can add cool embroidery to the shirt.
By the way, the cut is also ideal for spring: just shorten the sleeves a little and you have a spring-like top.