While leafing through the patterns from the BERNINA “inspiration” magazine, I came across this beautiful pattern – the “Fabiana” blouse from issue 1/2022 of the “inspiration” magazine. An airy, light shirt that should not be missing in any summer wardrobe. Today I will show you step by step how to sew this blouse.
Pattern for the classic blouse
The classic blouse is suitable for the office as well as for a stroll through town and has a few highlights such as asymmetry, sewn-down folds and cuffs on the fashionable three-quarter sleeves. The pattern for the model “Fabiana” is available under the following link: Pattern Blouse “Fabiana”
This versatile style can be worn with skinny jeans and pretty sandals, or with leggings and trainers for a relaxed look.
I downloaded the pattern as a PDF and printed out all the pages on A4. Please don’t forget to check if your print settings are set to actual size or 100% before printing. I’ve made this mistake before! I then taped all my sheets together to create a beautiful paper and tape puzzle, utilizing all 4 corners of my living room! (In this phase, a glass of wine often helps me!)
I measured myself and compared this to the size chart that came with the pattern to determine my size. I took size 38. Then I cut out the pattern with the appropriate lines for my size. After I had everything cut out and feeling a little more organized, I laid all the pattern pieces onto the fabric to make sure everything lined up.
I had my eye on the fabric I wanted to use for a while. It’s a beautiful army green double gauze muslin fabric with an all over dotted embroidery in sweet sherbet shades from Buntspecht’s website.
Muslin is a trend fabric this summer. Double gauze is a very light cotton fabric that has a very loose weave. Think of a baby burp cloth, but in a much nicer quality. The fabric is airy, soft, light and has a great texture.
Sewing double gauze is a breeze! The embossing of the double gauze makes it possible to have an auxiliary line when sewing. This makes it easier to find your way around. However, double gauze is a fabric that can move when sewn. So hold onto the fabric and sew carefully! A small plus point for the material: Double Gauze is very easy to cut. Experienced seamstresses can also cut the fabric without scissors by simply following the embossed line.
Sew the “Fabiana” blouse
Cut out all pattern pieces – I’m ready to sew! I tend to read through all the instructions before starting a new pattern to familiarize myself with the terminology used. I found the instructions very informative and easy to work with. I then threaded my sewing machine with a matching thread and my sergers with a similar shade… and I was good to go!
To sew my blouse I use my BERNINA 480 and have replaced the needle with a new, sharp one!
I start by cutting out and ironing on the fleece lining on the collar and on the front button plackets on both sides to make the fabric for the button closure more stable. I used Vlieseline H180.
Then I fold the front pleats using the marked cutting lines on the pattern, iron them, pin them in place and sew them into place. Please note that the pleats are only on one side of the blouse.
Then I add the bust darts on both front pieces and sew the shoulder seams, finishing the edges with my BERNINA L 850. If you don’t have an overlocker, use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. This will prevent the fabric from dissolving.
My next step is to close the side seams and hem the blouse. I decided against a concealed placket (the option and instructions are provided) but instead wanted to show off my beautiful matching buttons – so I folded, ironed and topstitched the front placket following the markings.
I really wanted to create a smooth curve for my hem, so I made a trim. To do this, I traced the curve of the shirt hem from the front and back pattern pieces and used a depth of 5 cm. I sewed the 3 pieces together and finished the top edge. Then I added this part to the hem, ironed and topstitched.
Sewing a blouse – collar and topstitching
My next step is attaching the collar and topstitching. It’s a bit tricky, but with the help of my trusty iron I managed to do it. Next up are the sleeves. First I hem the sleeves, sew them together and attach the sleeve head to the blouse, overlocking all the finished seams.
The grand finale: it’s time for the button! That too seems to be a nerve-wracking experience! I’ve finished my garment and if the buttonholes go wrong I could burst into tears!
I have to say that the B 480 has a magical automatic button sewing program that still amazes me after almost a year!
I’m wearing my cute blouse with leggings and a vest. You can also tie them together at the front and pair them with skinny jeans…